Tomato Frog
(Dyscophus guineti)

Tomato frogs can be found northern parts of Madagascar and males grow to 2 to 2½ inches long. Female tomato frogs are slightly larger, reaching lengths of three to four inches. The tomato frog gets its name from its bright red coloration that ranges from a reddish-orange to a dark red. The underbelly is yellow with occational dark spots on the throat. The bright colors of the tomato frog acts as warning coloration to other species since the tomato frog secretes a toxin when stressed. If the tomato frog begins to change color to drab brown, this can be an indicator of poor health and steps should be taken immediately to correct any husbandry issues or even to consult a qualified veterinarian.

Difficulty

NOVICE to MODERATE: The tomato frog's smaller size make it an excellent choice for hobbyists to keep, but the required specialized lighting may pose a challenge for some hobbyists.

Requirements

An enclosure, such as:

• Glass or acrylic aquarium (15 gallons or more, depending on the number of tomato frogs kept) with a secure lid

Substrate, such as:

• Potting soil
• Sphagnum Moss
• Orchid Bark

A heating element, such as:

• Under the tank heater
• Incandescent heat bulb
• Ceramic infrared heat emitters
• Aquarium Heater
• UVB producing bulb

Enclosure

A 15-gallon aquarium with a secure lid should be adequate for up to three tomato frogs. When housing tomato frogs together it is important that they are the same size to avoid canabalism. A 50/50 ratio of land to water is usually the best way to maintain tomato frogs for breeding. A strictly forest floor type of enclosure is fine if you will not be breeding.

If using a forest floor type of setup, spot clean the enclosure regularly and replace the substrate as needed. If using a 50/50 ratio of land to water setup, spot clean the land portion and replace the substrate as needed and use a filtration system for the water. Partial water changes are recommended weekly.

Substrate

Potting soil, peat moss, orchid bark, or crushed coconut fiber are all perfectly fine, but the soil and moss will help maintain the humidity for the tomato frogs. Try to avoid using small bark and gravel due to danger of accidental ingestion. Whatever susbstrate you choose for the tomato frog should be deep enough and soft enough to allow the tomato frog to burrow into. We recommend at least two inches.

Heating and Light

Tomato frogs should have daytime temperatures of 75°F to 85°F. Nightime temperatures should be 65°F to 75°F. A spotlight with an appropriate wattage incandescnet bulb or ceramic emitter can be used to provide heat. Some sort of UVB producing bulb should be used such as fluorescent tubes or compact fluorescent bulbs. Heat producing mecury vapor bulbs can also be used, but be careful not to make the enclosure too warm for the tomato frogs. Many hobbyists will install thermometers or thermostats in the enclsosure to be able to accurately maintain these temperatures. Humidity levels should be maintained at 80% and can be achieved by frequent mistings and glass canopies that partially cove the screen top.

Diet

Tomato frogs can be fed insects such as crickets, flies, fruit flies, and just about anything smaller than their mouth can be offered. Crickets are usually the easiest and most readily available prey. When offering crickets be usre to gut load the crickets with a good diet to provide the best nutrition for your tomato frog. Fresh water should be provided in a dish for the tomato frogs.