Nile Monitor
(Varanus niloticus)

The Nile monitor is a large, powerful monitor with a long neck and tail reaching lengths of four to six feet, with some reaching up to eight feet long. The Nile monitor has large powerful limbs and sharp claws. The Nile monitor has flattened ridge down the back of the tail helps the monitor swim. A blue-purple forked tongue darts in and out of the mouth when the monitor is in motion or interested. The Nile monitor's coloration varies from white to yellow-green, with markings of grey to black forming a band across the eyes. Hashes crossing the Nile monitor's mouth, chevrons down the neck, bands of spots across the body, spots on the limbs, and rings around the tail are also noticible. Usually, you will see its threat display - an expanded neck pouch, arched neck, body held high off the ground, tail cocked to deliver a powerful whipping blow, and a loud hiss.

The Nile monitor is found across Africa, from Egypt to South Africa, anywhere where water can be found.

Difficulty

ADVANCED: Nile monitors are illegal to own in some areas. If you need to look at a care sheet for this species, you should think twice about owning a Nile monitor. These are large, powerful lizards that almost never calm down. Their aggressive personality often causes the Nile montitor to see their keepers as threats, and they will defend themselves with blows from their tail, ripping with their claws, or bites. Nile monitors also have a habbit of projectile defecating on their perceived predators. Almost any other monitor species (with the exception of the Komodo dragon) is better suited as a pet.

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Requirements

An enclosure, such as:

Substrate, such as:

A heating element, such as:

Enclosure

Small adult Nile monitors will need a set-up about four foot by eight foot of floor space. Larger animals will require an entire room for an enclosure. When converting a room for a monitor cage, remember that these animals can dig through dry wall, so you will need to reinforce the walls. Avoid wire mesh in construction of your cage. This not only lets the heat and humidity out, but large monitors can dig even through heavy gauge hardware cloth. Limit ventilation, especially around the warmer side of the cage, in order to keep the humidity up. Live plants are not a good idea since they will quickly be destroyed by a curious and active Nile monitor.

Substrate

The substrate or bedding that you use is one of the most important parts of your Nile monitor's home, since your Nile monitor will be spending much of its time on it. Nile monitors like to burrow and require something that they can dig in. Dirt provides the best substrate. It needs to be deep enough to allow the Nile monitor to construct tunnels and burrows naturally. This provides not only security, but helps with regulating humidity and temperature. Beware, not all dirt is created equal. Go to a nursery or landscape supply business and choose a dirt that holds a burrow and humidity, drains well, is not too dusty, and does not turn to slime when wet. Fill the Nile monitor's cage to a depth of two feet. Be sure to clean it often to prevent mold and bacteria growth.

Heating and Light

Nile monitors should have daytime temperatures of 75°F to 80°F on the cool side of the cage and increasing temperatures of of 90°F to 100°F on the warm side of the cage. A basking spot of 110°F to 130°F should be provided as well. Nightime temperatures should be 70°F to 75°F. Nile monitors do not require UV light. A spotlight with an appropriate wattage incandescnet bulb or ceramic emitter can be used to provide heat. Many hobbyists will install thermometers or thermostats in the enclsosure to be able to accurately maintain these temperatures. We do not recommend the use of any kind of heat rocks as they can often lead to burns on your Nile monitor.

Diet

Adult Nile monitors can be fed a staple diet of frozen-thawed mice or rats. Juvenile Nile monitors can be raised on a diet of insects dusted with vitamin and mineral powder and appropriately sized rodents.

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